Oratoire St Martin Cairanne Haut Coustias Blanc 2021

Biodynamic. 30% Clairette, 30% Roussanne, 30% Marsanne and 10% Grenache Blanc. This wine achieved cult status in France when Olivier Poussier (Sommelier du Monde 2000 and La Revue du Vin de Frances Rhne specialist) compared its quality to a white Hermitage. Haut Coustias is selected from the estates oldest, lowest-yielding white vines, which mostly face east in the chalkiest, coolest part of Oratoires La Montagne terroirs (the name given to the steepest area of Cairanne). The average age of the vines is 75 years, and these venerable plants produce low yields of 20 hl/ha. Each variety is harvested and vinified separately in concrete egg or old foudre before blending.

Weve often said that we know of very few Rhne whites that can match the depth, complexity and sheer presence on offer here. Seductive and textured, theres a brew of ripe pear, garrigue and anise on the nose, joined by fleshy peach skin on the palate. The wines shapely richness is deftly controlled by deep-rooted energy (no malo this year) and mouth-watering phenolics. Despite the wines power, its classy subtlety, balance and length of flavour set it apart. If a hot white Burgundy grower made wine this far south, it might look like this… (wax cap and all).